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How to Shingle a Storage Shed Roof

June 13th, 2009 Wendy Wood No comments

There are many things that you should take into consideration when deciding to replace broken shingles or shingling a new roof on your storage shed. First of all, the slant of the roof; will you be comfortable working on it, or is it just too steep? The outside temperature will also determine how the shingles lay.

As soon as you choose to do the work yourself you are going to need to remember to keep your personal safety at the top of your mind at all times. While getting your storage shed roof shingled is an important job, you do not want to sacrifice your personal safety to get the job done. That being said, it is very possible to put shingles on your storage shed roof just as long as you have the proper tools and a good safety plan in place.

The materials you will need are a staple gun hammer, hammer staples, roofing felt, barbed roofing nails, utility or trimming knife, straightedge ruler, ridge cap shingles, and asphalt shingles.

So as not to waste time and materials, you should have already figured out your total roof area in order to make a good and accurate assessment of the number of shingles you will need for a particular style, texture, and color of your choice.

So know when you are finally ready to begin your shingling project you are going to want to begin by moving all of your supplies out to the shed so you do not have to do a lot of running back and forth looks for things.

You are going to want to get starting by unrolling the roofing felt all across the plywood top of your storage shed. You want to staple the roofing felt securely to the roof. You also want to be sure that the felt will go around the corners of the roof so that the entire surface is covered.

You need to make sure that the very first layer of shingles that you are laying down is upside down so that all of the tabs are pointing up. You will then need to cut the first shingle about six inches using a straightedge and a utility knife. You should make sure that the bottom of the shingle should overhang the drip edge of the storage shed by at least 3/8 of an inch. You should use full sized shingles for the rest of the row and nail them down with roofing nails.

You start the next row with a full shingle and correctly position each shingle that you are using with the tar area near the top and the colored tabs on the bottom. Be sure to attach the shingles beginning from the base of the roof. You should use three or four roofing nails with each shingle.

Now that you have all the singles properly attached to your storage shed room you then should then cut off all parts of the shingles that are creating an overhang on the sides of your storage shed. Then all you need to do is the needed cleaning and additional trimming.

Trim off any excess part of the shingles from the sides of the roof. You may also use constructive adhesive to reinforce shingles along the edges and prevent them from popping out. Upon reaching your roof’s peak, attach the ridge cap shingles down the middle from side to side of the roof. Trim off any excess parts, and then clean up.

Having a storage shed can be a great addition to anyone’s property no matter what you plan to store inside it. Of course whatever you do plan to store in your shed you are going to want to make sure that it is kept safe and secure. This is where putting up shingles or replacing old and damaged shingles comes in.

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The Strong Appeal Of Mixed Caladium Beds

June 13th, 2009 Keith Markensen No comments

The first heavy burst of rose bloom occurs in May in most of the South, and now in June the plants are slowing up a bit, both in growth and bloom, taking a little rest for the next good spurt of bloom just a few weeks ahead.

Now the plants need regular attention and treatment with fungicides until the weather gets hot and dry. Clip off all faded flowers; in the case of the fioribundas, take off the entire head of faded blooms.

Assuming that your plants were fed in February, this is a good time for a second feeding, using your favorite plant food according to the manufacturers directions. Do not forget to use plenty of water after applying the fertilizer.

Camellias can also use a second feeding now. I do not like the idea of feeding later than July; and June is much better. This, the last feeding for the year, if accompanied by plenty of water, will encourage the plants to good second growth which will have time to harden before winter arrives.

June is also the best month to take summer cuttings of camellias. If properly handled, they will be well rooted in ten to twelve weeks. Azalea cuttings taken early this month should have good roots in eight to ten weeks.

If you use one of the fertilizers compounded especially for azaleas and camellias, it will probably not be necessary to add an acid-forming material to the soil; but if you use a standard garden plant food, you should increase the acidity of the soil by adding sulfur, iron sulfate or aluminum sulfate.

Beds of caladium planted solidly with one variety have strong appeal, but beds of mixed colors are also effective. If using a mixture of varieties, be sure to get a proper proportion of white varieties to dark ones. One white to five or six dark would probably be most effective. You should be able to buy the plants in pots from your local garden center or nursery. Be sure to learn when to repot plants and get plants that have just started growth , not those that are mature and ready to fade out.

Rooted cuttings of chrysanthemums can be planted now. There is nothing to be gained and much to be lost by setting out cuttings in March and April. Early plantings will require several more pinchings than those planted around the first of June. It seems to be more difficult to keep the early-set plants in continuous and vigorous growth than those planted later. Continuous, vigorous growth is essential for once growth is checked, the plants tend to become stunted, sometimes never recovering.

It is time now to pinch the garden type chrysanthemums for the second or third time. The more often these plants are pinched, the better they will branch; and more branches mean more flowers.

The early-flowering perennials that have become a bit dormant can be divided and transplanted now. Day-lilies and bearded and Oriental iris that flowered in March or April can be transplanted this month. Cut the foliage about halfway back and keep the plants adequately watered until they have time to become established.

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