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Since at this time of the year we are especially concerned with fall planting and dividing, the principal perennials which are best handled at this time may be enumerated as follows: Anemone sylvestris (snowdrop anemone), Brunnera macrophylla (Anchusa myosotidiflora), Caltha palustris flore pleno (double-flowered marsh marigold), Convallaria majalis (lily-of-the-valley), epimedium (barren-wort), helleborus (Christmas rose), Lathyrus vernus (spring vetchling), Nepeta mussini and N. grandiflora, and paeonia (peony). To these one should also add adonis (pheasant’s eye), ere-murus (desert candle), Mertensia virginica (Virginia bluebells) and Papaver orientale (Oriental poppy). These latter plants are completely at rest by the end of summer, and August-September is the only safe period to transplant and divide them.

At the opposite end of the scale are those plants which, under all circumstances are most safely transplanted and divided in the spring. This group consists mainly of fall-flowering perennials, most of which continue to bloom until frost stops them. By that time it is usually too late for them to get a fair chance to recover if their roots are disturbed.

Michaelmas daisies (Aster novibelgi and A. novae-angliae) and chrysanthemums are the most widely grown plants in this category. The following also behave in the same manner: aconituna (monkshood), Anemone japonica, Artemisia lactiflora (white mugwort), Cimicifuga simplex, Eupatorium codestinum (mist flower), Helenium autumnale (sneezeweed), helianthus (perennial sunflower), kniphofia (tritoma, torch lily), liatris (blazing starr), physostegia (false dragon-head), and Polygonum cuspidatum.

The last and largest group contains all the “in between.” Depending upon prevailing climatic conditions, these may, be planted and divided either in spring or fall. Actually these are the ones regarding which opinions and directions clash, and they are, consequently, the source of all the confusion.

The two main factors which determine whether fall or spring planting of these in-between plants is preferable are: the date at which the first severe frosts may be expected, and the kind of snow cover the plants are likely to receive.

In regions where autumns are long and mild, where severe frosts before the end of December are rare, and where the temperature throughout the winter never drops below zero, fall planting is definitely recommended. It will enable the plants to become firmly established and, during the year following, they will produce a good display of blooms.

In northern regions, where spring is late and usually too short for the trans-planting and division of this type of perennial, and where snow falls in October and remains as a deep, continuous cover throughout winter, fall planting is equally advantageous. The insulation provided by snow will prevent the soil from freezing deeply and the plants will have the required conditions for producing new roots.

Unfortunately, however, in large sections of North America neither of these two conditions prevails. Where winter starts fitfully with severe frosts in October or November, and where snow falls late and cannot be expected to provide much of a continuous cover, spring planting of this last group is the safer procedure.

Some of the more important perennials in this controversial group are the following: astilbe (spiraea), campanula (bellflower), Chrysanthemum maximum (Shasta daisy), delphinium (larkspur), dianthus (pinks and carnations), filipendula (meadowsweet), geum (avens), heliopsis (ox-eye), hemerocallis (daylily), hosta (funkia, plantain lily), Phlox paniculata, thalictrum (meadow rue), Tradescantia virginiana (spiderwort), trollius (globe flower), and veronica (speedwell). There are a great many more. In fact, all those which flower between the end of May and the end of August come under this classification.

How often to divide perennials?

When we come to the question of how often should perennials be divided, we are again faced with a problem which cannot be settled in one short sentence. The main reason for dividing plants at more or less regular intervals is to maintain the health and vigor of the plants. How often this operation should be performed depends upon the variety of plant and its habit of growth. The care which the plant has received exerts considerable influence also.

There is, of course, no need to divide any plant as long as it flowers well and shows no sign of decreasing vigor. But for the sake of convenience, the average needs as regards division of the most frequently grown garden perennials may be expressed by arranging them in five groups:

Divide Every Year Divide Every Other year Divide Every Third or Fourth Year May be Left Undivided for 5 “6 Years ” Divide to Increase Stock Recent Transplants which Should Not be disturbed once established

Reviving house plants follow some procedures just like dividing perennials. The manner in which perennials may be divided depends, of course, upon their individual growing habits. The procedures are not as simple as removing plants brown tips. Some plants, such as trollius, hepatica, etc., form a dense cluster of crowns which separate readily once the earth is shaken out of the roots.

For dividing some other plants, such as columbines and peonies, a sharp knife is indispensable. Still others, such as aconitum, epimedium, etc., separate best if they are broken apart rather than cut. The breakage occurs in the most propitious spot which cannot always be found with a knife. With these plants, if the hands are not strong enough to force a break, two spading forks may be inserted back to back in the clump and used as levers.

In some instances, as with echinops, naonarda, thalictrum, etc., a cross cut with a sharp spade, separating the clump into four more or less equal parts, is the most satisfactory method.

Learn your plants and when they need to be divided. This will increase the beauty of your landscape and help create healthier plants.

Selecting Stock Plants – September is a good time to begin making cuttings for starting next year’s plants. Lantana cuttings should be made from seasoned wood before any lush growth occurs after the fall rains. If the cutting wood is soft, the cuttings will rot or blast instead of developing roots. The colorful Jacob’s coat (Alternanthera) can be kept as cuttings over winter as can other types of herbaceous plants such as hibiscus, geraniums, coleus, ice plant, sultana and wandering Jew. By September, these plants are conditioned properly for taking of cuttings.

Roses- The cool nights of September will stimulate new growth for a lush crop of bloom during early October. This means the last application of fertilizer should be made this month. Light liquid feedings will be very beneficial, or you may use your own pet brand of commercial fertilizer or rose food. Cottonseed meal is a wonderful food and should be used at the rate of one-half teacupful per plant and worked in lightly around each plant. Heavy watering should follow so that the rose plant may absorb the food. Throughout our section, the quality of fall roses often surpasses that of spring blooms, even though they are usually fewer in number. In watering, keep the water off the foliage and do not water after mid-afternoon in order that the plants can go into the night with surfaces dry. The usual disease and insect pests are prevalent during this fall season, so be on constant guard to protect these plants.

Fall Lawns – Seed, feed and weed – these are the lawn problems during September. There is still time to seed bare spots in a lawn and get a cover before killing frost. The final feeding of the season should be applied by mid-September and usually a shot of potash will help to harden off the grass for winter. By light feeding is meant about four pounds of a balanced fertilizer per 1,000 square feet. For this last feeding, use a balanced fertilizer rather than straight nitrogen. This will keep a good color and a healthy turf without over stimulation of vegetative growth and will insure hardening off of the grass to withstand winter conditions. For those who want a winter lawn, this is the last call for planting Italian rye to give that lush green sparkle to the lawn during the winter. Sow seed as suggested last month, and follow with careful care and grooming. A neglected winter lawn can ruin the permanent grass and become an unsightly mess.

By the end of summer many lawns have become infested with weeds and foreign grasses which have persisted in spite of mowing. In my lawn, i put kimberly queen fern but still infested with weeds. These lawn enemies will set seed in a short time and a major infestation may result the next year. The new weed killers will get most of these pests, and there are special selective killers for some of the more difficult kinds such as crabgrass, dandelions and plantains. These chemical controls work better during the warm part of the day, but anytime is a good time for killing weeds just like caring for kimberly queen fern.

If there is serious infestation, large scale spraying will bring them under control. The beautiful feature of the liquid killers is the ability to “spot” kill and most of them do no harm to the permanent grasses. Occasionally, weeds will escape detection in other parts of the garden in out-of-the-way places and these can infest an entire garden, so be on the lookout for them.