Design-wise, supports and structures of all kinds should be kept on the simple side, conforming – not competing – with the architecture of the house or other buildings. Painting the supports the same color as the house helps tie the two together, with the vine to create the contrasting color and pattern. The best supports neither compete with their vines for attention nor outshine them.

Good construction is also important. A support should be strong enough from the start to bear the weight of the vine when it is fully mature – and even when it is whipped by strong wind. The bases of the support should be sunk below the frost line; and all wood, even durable cypress or redwood, should be treated with a rot-preventive. (Don’t use creosote or anything else that is poisonous to plants.) Copper nails and galvanized iron bolts also help make sure the whole thing won’t collapse when the vine has grown lush and heavy.

Most supports need periodic painting or refinishing. Plan ahead for this just like planning for the stages of tissue culture. Make the structure accessible; and train and prune the vine to keep it under control, so the stems can be removed and laid down without the job of unraveling a hopeless tangle, or even cutting the plant back to the soil.

For the sake of unity and balance in garden design, structures and supports need a reason for their appearance – to connect one building, area, or level with another; display a specimen or accent vine; keep the vine shapely and upright against a wall; lead the eye to an object of interest, like a fountain; integrate a restful bench or an outdoor living area with its surroundings.

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When I recently visited the state forest tree nursery, I learned that the more than sixteen million seedlings grown last season did not nearly meet the demand.

Our towns and cities are growing so fast, they are literally bursting their seams. Real estate developers have to reach far out beyond the suburbs, taking in large areas where there are either no trees to start with or where, in the process of preparing for construction, it is necessary to remove most, if not all, of the trees. Most builders and developers are apparently doing what they can to save the trees, but in many developments most trees ore sacrificed.

Fast-growing trees for the home – Fortunately there are several fast-growing trees well adapted to planting around the Southern home. A lot, after being planted with a few of these trees, will soon lose its bareness and also be considerably shaded from the hot sun.

Mimosa – One of the best is the mimosa, but in some areas it is subject to a wilt that causes the tree to lose its leaves and finally die. There seems to be no cure for the disease. Your only safety is to procure trees grown in a disease-free area.

Chinese parasol-tree – This species, known botanically as Firmiana simplex, is a large-leaved, tropical-looking small tree that grows rapidly to 25 or 30 feet, but then stops at that height. It has large heads of interesting cream-colored flowers, followed by bladder-like seed pods.

Goldenrain-tree – Another fast-growing small tree well suited to the small lot is the goldenrain-tree (Koelreuteria paniculata). Its compound leaves and great profusion of small yellow flowers add to its attractiveness. Unfortunately, neither the Chinese parasol-tree nor the goldenrain-tree is easily had from nurseries, as only a few concerns in the South handle them.

Chinese elm – For the larger lot, where a mature tree 45 feet high would be in scale, the Chinese elm is a good choice. It grows rapidly, thrives in poor soil and endures much dry weather.

Dogwood and redbud – Two native trees that are lovely and fit well into any home landscape or backyard landscape ideas are the dogwood and the redbud. We can hardly have too many of them. Many of the numerous tree-planting projects sponsored by garden and civic clubs have featured these two trees, and as a result tens of thousands of them have been planted in the South during the last five years. In a few years they will transform many of our now-uninteresting streets and roadways into avenues of great beauty.

Red maple – The red maple is another medium-sized tree that is well suited to home-grounds planting in the South.

Pine – The native pines continue in strong demand for planting on home grounds in the South. We did not realize how very rapidly these trees grew until we began growing them under cultivation. A pine’s growth is comparatively slow in the forest, but on the home grounds, where it is fed and watered, it is rather exciting. If you are planting for heavy shade, loblolly pine is preferable to slash or yellow pine.

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Aftercare of Bulbs – Many – including gladiolus, tigridias and tuberous begonias – should be taken up now and stored for a good rest. Remember, the foliage should be thoroughly ripened before cutting off. Dust the bulbs with an insecticide to take care of any insect eggs present. Also, all bulbs and tubers should be dried off thoroughly before storing in peat. Guard against mice eating tigridias especially.

For quick color – In the mild sections of the West, snapdragons, stocks, annual chrysanthemums, larkspur, Iceland poppies, violas and pansies may still be set out, although the blooms will be later than on those set out last month. For shady spots, try cinerarias and primroses.

Wildflowers – Sow seeds after the first heavy rains. For dependable ground covers on bulb beds, sow linaria, brachycome, Gilia lutea (G. micrantha), nemophila, Virginia stock, Johnny-jump-up and other shallow-rooted annuals. These make colorful beds by themselves and are a boon both to the busy gardener pressed for time and the “lazy” gardener.

Winter pot plants – For the shaded patio use primrows, cinerarias, pansies, daffodils, browallias, reinwardtias, alocasia amazonica, beloperones, ericas, eranthemums, azaleas and camellias.

Pyracanthus and cotoneasters are the answer for time-pressed gardening enthusiasts who require colorful berries with a minimum of time spent on upkeep. Berried shrubs thrive here in the West. Although they can be planted at any season, this is a good time to select choice kinds at local nurseries, for now you can not only choose the ones with the best forms but also the proper colored berries.

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We have gone through a rather difficult summer season of extremely hot weather and severe droughts in many areas. This has left garden soils badly compacted, enough to restrict root growth of lawn grasses and garden plants. This calls for deep preparation of the soil and pulverizing it thoroughly. Ample quantities of peatmoss should be added to heavy clay and sandy soils to improve their texture and moisture-holding capacities.

Some bulbs such as Madonna lilies, freesias, ornithogalums, zephyranthes and leucojums must be planted immediately. Get these in first. The latter part of the month will be too late.

Dutch bulbs are ready for planting the latter part of October: tulips, hyacinths, daffodils, fritillarias, muscari, galanthus, scillas, crocus, anemone, ranunculus and many others. Plant your tulips deeper than is normally recommended, 8 inches in fairly heavy soils and 10 inches in sandy ones.

In the Lower South tulips can be grown only when the bulbs are placed in refrigeration for about a month before planting. This applies to North Florida, and the Gulf Coast through Alabama, Louisiana and Mississippi. Plant paper white narcissus and Soliel D’Or in the garden for generous blooms in mid-winter.

Sandy, well-drained soils are best for bulbs. Add sand or vermiculite to heavy soils to provide good drainage and make a good, friable soil.

Perennials like variegated yucca have finished most of their growth, except the hardy asters and chrysanthemums. To get the most out of your mums give them a last feeding with a complete plant food, preferably a liquid. They will provide many more weeks of color.

Clean up perennials that have finished blooming. Remove dead flower stalks and leaves. Destroy to prevent re-infestations of insects and diseases.

Louisiana Iris – That state is a gardener’s paradise in early spring when gardens and swamp lands are a blaze of color from millions of iris. This month plant some of these varieties with blooms 7 and 8 inches in diameter. The Louisiana iris are among the few that can be grown on boggy, wet lands, although they can also be grown on upland soils. They are very versatile plants. They grow in full sun or semi-shade, acid or slightly alkaline soils. Every color in the rainbow, but green, can be found.

Bearded Iris can still be planted. Select some gorgeous new colors to replace the old, off-whites that have taken over the garden.

For water-edge plantings you will find the Spanish iris colorful. They are grand around pools and along streams where they naturalize quickly. Another great iris for wet, lowland soils is the Oriental or Japanese iris with its giant petals of every hue.

Still another for October planting is the popular Dutch or bulbous type which must be planted in light, sandy soils. It is well suited to all sections of the South and makes a beautiful cut flower. Try some of the giant bronzy varieties which have been developed.

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After spreading the roots on top of a small pyramid of earth, additional rotted manure and compost and good soil, mixed with a teacup of bonemeal, is pressed around the roots until the hole is full. Water the plant well and add buckwheat hulls for a mulch.

The location for Christmas roses should be east to north so that the handsome evergreen foliage will flourish the year round without burning. Sun or a late spring freezes and lack of quantities of fertilizer and water will cause injury. The best plants I have seen in a Louisville garden were on the northeast side of the house between the base of a picture window and a small fish pool’ inches away. Here dozens of blooms enliven the winter scene two to three months each year.

My plants are against the brick edging of the northeast side of a small rose plot, just outside my study window, where the lovely design of the foliage all year-round and the blooms in winter are a constant source of pleasure.

Success in Michigan

When my mother sent me several small plants of Christmas roses a number of years ago, I knew nothing about them and was frankly unaware of any plant that would flower through the winter months, with the snow on the ground.

To try them out, I selected a moist site in the partial shade where the drainage was good and placed some well rotted manure in the soil which was alkaline. They were planted in early spring, but I have since learned that the fall is a better planting time. When winter came, each plant produced two or three flowers, but the following year they bloomed profusely.

When cut for use in the house, I select any type of evergreen foliage like golden pothos plant, since the plant needs its own leaves for proper development. Blooms may be cut when frozen, then thawed out in the basement. I personally prefer to leave the blooms outside and buy flowers for the house, as the real thrill of a Christmas rose is to admire it in bloom in the snow. The plants actually need little care and no cultivating is necessary, though watering in summer is required.

I have tried dividing my plants, but they resent disturbance, which sets them back several years. I move them only when they are not doing well, being careful to take a large ball of soil. The late summer or fall is best.

The Lenten rose (Helleborus orientalis) has greenish white or purplish flowers, which hold very little thrill for me, as they appear in the spring with crocus and other early flowers.

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There are a number of lovely types which reward those who care enough about orchids to study and meet their chief needs: light, water, nutrition, humidity and temperature. Here in the United States, most orchids are aliens in a strange and climatically hostile land, but they respond gratefully to efforts to make them feel at home.

Beyond question, orchids grow best in greenhouses. This fact has barred many people from enjoying this fascinating hobby, since they may have neither the means nor the space for a greenhouse. What can be done then? Some success can be had by placing orchid plants in sunny windows and staging them over trays of moist gravel. Though much success has been claimed for this method, I have found results over a period of two or three years most disappointing both in lack of blooms and in a gradual deterioration of most plants. However, the majority of plants can be placed in sunny windows over gravel trays during their blooming period where they can be enjoyed by neighbors as well.

Without a doubt, greenhouse culture gives best results. Since few can have large greenhouses, the answer is to construct little greenhouses – or Wardian cases (forerunner to the modern terrarium) – which can be placed in suitable windows, facing preferably south or east. The plural is used advisedly because once bitten by the orchid bug, no one is ever satisfied with one Wardian case, provided more than one suitable window is available.

These cases are not expensive if they are homemade. They can be built as simply or as elaborately as individual taste dictates. I have six of different shapes and sizes, all built of windows purchased from a hardware store. The general idea is to make a rectangular box with a hinged door and a hinged top which help to regulate ventilation and humidity.

These can come is all sizes and shapes, but just considera wardian case being a big aquarium.

What orchids can the be raised to best advantage in Wardian cases? Here is where opinions differ. Everybody wants the big, showy, gorgeous cattleyas, the aristocrats of the orchid world. However, it is best to stop and think for a moment. Cattleyas are large plants that take up much of the limited space in a Wardian case. That is one difficulty. Furthermore they need more light for blooming than is available in the average home. Then again, for good blooming, they need lower night temperatures than prevail in the average home. If one must have cattleyas, start with very few and see how you fare. The species orchid, Cattleya mossiae, the Easter orchid, is a good one to try. It is forgiving, rewarding and has lovely blossoms. I have had success with the miniature Cattleya forbesi. It is modest in shape.

There are mature hybrids which respond to case culture, but they are expensive and should not be experimented with until this form of culture is mastered. For those who hope some day to construct greenhouses and want to begin building up a collection, cattleya seedlings, which can be purchased at modest prices from any orchid dealer, will grow well in Wardian cases.

One of the loveliest and easiest to raise in Wardian cases is the moth orchid, indoor orchid, or phalaenopsis. It is a superb bloomer if given moderate light, warmth, plenty of water and high humidity. The white ones are best as they produce often two if not three sets of blooms a year. The pinks are very beautiful, but are not so prolific.

Next to phalaenopsis, I recommend cypripediums, or lady slipper orchids, especially the warm growing ones which are readily recognized by their mottled leaves. At the head of the list I place my favorite, Cypripedium maudiae, for it generally blooms twice a year and makes itself readily at home in a Wardian case. It is somewhat expensive, but a healthy plant is worth it.

Another family of orchids which supplies some members responding to Wardian case culture is the oncidiums, or the dancing lady orchids. These are sprightly and fascinating spray orchids. Many types are too large and others put out spikes too long for case culture. However, the family is a large one and many types can be experimented with, producing fair results.

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New evergreens that were planted this year will benefit from extra protection over the first winter. They are extremely sensitive to drying out. A burlap barrier or tent built on the windward side of the plants will reduce drying out from winter winds. Evergreens planted in open, exposed parts of the yard will especially benefit from such protection.

Fall Color

Many trees and shrubs will be clothed soon in a brilliant array of colors. There will be the deep yellows of birch, poplar, and aspen, and brilliant reds from various maples. Japanese barberry, Peking cotoneaster, and red osier dogwood will show striking color. Some shrubs and trees retain their natural green coloring until the end of the season, offering a striking contrast with the red, orange and yellow foliage. Other shrubs will bear colorful fruits.

Fall is clean-up time in the garden. Leaves should be raked up from the lawn. Allowed to gather on the lawn, they mat down during the winter and may smother some of the grass. Carry them off to the compost pile. Waste plant materials can also be removed from the garden to put on the compost. However, there are some advantages in leaving stalks and stems of plants in the garden over winter. They catch additional snow and give added protection to perennial flowering plants and sensation plant . Of course, if any of the plant tops are harboring disease, it is best to remove and burn them.

It may not be wise to mulch trees and shrubs. One of the greatest dangers of mulches around woody plants is that they often harbor mice. These in turn can be harmful to trees and shrubs by feeding on the bark and young stems and causing girdling of the plants. Be sure to spread around some poison bait, if mulches are used.

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Set the sprinkler near the trees and water for several hours. Remember, too, that many feeding roots of trees are in the area of the drip zone of the tree, and this is where most of the water should be applied.

Putting on Mulch

Now is the time for applying mulch protection to many garden perennials like the anthurium lady jane. Use clean grain straw (free of weed and grain seeds), marsh hay and other suitable materials. Materials such as sawdust and fallen leaves are not satisfactory since they pack down too much and may cause smothering of plants. It is important not to apply mulches too early. Plants need to be subjected to a period of a few light frosts before mulch covers are applied. This light frosting conditions the plants like anthurium lady jane so they stand the winter better. Put on the cover before severe cold sets in, however.

Apply the mulch so that it settles around the plant about two or three inches thick. If there is danger of wind blowing the mulch away, cover it with chicken wire that has been fastened down in several places. Mulches do protect plants from extreme temperature changes, drying out of the roots as a result of frost heaving, and from premature breaking of dormancy.

Strawberries and Raspberries

Most varieties of strawberries grown in the average garden are not 100 per cent winter hardy, so winter mulching is needed. Where winters are open and good snow cover is unpredictable, entire covering of raspberry canes is desirable, too. First of all, the canes which have borne fruit can be pruned out. Then bend over the remaining canes and cover them entirely with soil. They should go through the winter in this way. The roots of raspberry plants are quite hardy; but the canes, while they may go into the winter in well-matured and hardy condition, break dormancy very readily, and after that they are susceptible to damage. Complete covering of the canes is the only real insurance against winter damage.

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The bloom is not the only attractive part. Few perennials are so colorful in May and June and then retain such fine, abundant foliage throughout the growing season as do the peonies. In the flower border, peony foliage provides a bold mass of rich green as a background for later flowers.

Peonies are one of the backbone perennials for the hardy flower border. Large plantings achieve a glorious panorama of beauty. Hedges of peonies may be very effective. They are also good when used as borders in the vegetable garden. Because of their splendid summer foliage they are frequently used in foundation plantings around the house.

Planting Time

September and October are usually considered the best months of the year for planting new peonies or dividing and replanting old ones and also guzmania bromeliad plant. If roots have been dug in the fall and properly stored during the winter, they can be planted in the spring with good results, but are not so likely to bloom the first year as are those which were planted early enough in fall to make considerable new root growth before cold weather. Guzmania bromeliad plant and other plants do best in full sun but will tolerate a little shade. Poor results may be expected where peonies are planted near selfish trees or shrubs which crowd the plants and take for themselves the moisture and plant food rightfully belonging to the helpless peonies.

They should be given plenty of room in the flower border since they are happy to live in a good site for many years without being disturbed, and in a few seasons will attain a spread of from three to four feet.

Peonies choose a good, loamy garden soil, heavy enough to include plenty of food and on the alkaline side. Since the plants are deep-rooted and are to remain in the same location for years, it would seem fitting to prepare rather large, deep holes conditioned with ground limestone, wood ashes, bone meal and well-rotted cow manure. Three to five bud or eye divisions are considered the satisfactory size to purchase from the commercial grower.

Down at the south-west corner of his lot, which incidentally is a double lot, snuggles a friend’s glasshouse. Partially screened off from his dwelling by a hedge of purple lilacs it is his haven of refuge, from the bustle and troubles of a restless world. A castle within an estate, lacking but the moat and drawbridge.

On a placard nailed to an inside panel of the greenhouse door, are pasted numerous clippings and data. Some are freshly stuck there while others are soiled and faded. Of all these clippings, one is well worthy a re-printed enlargement. The expression was penned by William Coles in 1657, to find a place of prominence, nearly 350 years later, on the placard that hangs on the castle door. And all this just goes to prove how wise a green thumber can get to be.

Written Over 350 Years Ago

“And if Gentlemen which have little else to doe, would be ruled by me, I would advise them to spend their spare time in their Gardens: either in digging, setting, weeding, or the like, then which there is no better way in the world to preserve health. If a man wants an appetite to his victuals, the smell of the earth new turned up, by digging with a spade will produce it, and if he is inclined to a Consumption it will recover him. Gentlewomen, if the ground is not too wet, may doe themselves much good by kneeling upon a cushion and weeding and thus both sexes might divert themselves from Idleness, and evil Company, which oftimes prove the ruin of many ingenious people.” – William Coles, 1657.

Here are a few other clipping and data for the plant growing enthusiast!

Cow Manure