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Spring flowering bulbs that are rather small and those that are unprotected by any kind of a husk or covering should be planted as soon as possible. This is particularly true of the winter aconite (Eranthis). Many of these dry out so quickly that if kept until late October or November they will be so shriveled that they do not give you the results the catalogs promised.

Some of the small ones that you will particularly enjoy are the many different kinds of crocus, both spring and fall blooming, grape hyacinths, snowdrops, glory-of-the-snow (Chionodoxa), species of wild tulips, guinea hen flowers (Fritillaria meleagris), bulbous irises such as reticulata and Danfordi and the various squills. Since many of these are early blooming and rather small, plant them where you can enjoy them from the windows of your home or see them as you go in and out of doors.

We get great enjoyment from the dozens of kinds of these little bulbs in the wall garden just back of our home. As they are a couple of feet above the ground we don’t have to get down on our knees to see and appreciate them.

News About Lilies

Have you kept up with the progress on lilies? It’s been tremendous. Some that you may have overlooked are the many varieties of current hybrids. These are in yellows, oranges and reds, some upright flowered, some with flowers facing sideways, some hanging down. They will grow from two to about three feet in height and will bloom in June. And a little later will come the modern forms of regal lilies called Olympic hybrids. They are larger flowered and more showy than the original regals. For July blooming try some of the many Aurelian hybrids. Some of them are similar to one of their parents – Henryi; others go over to the other parents – a white trumpet lily. And there is everything under the sun in between, they are tall, usually four to six feet in height, in yellows, oranges, and salmons, some curved petaled, some trumpets, some fragrant, some not fragrant. They are wonderful. And now there are hybrids of the regals that are yellow or pink. Just like lilies, philodendrons have also many varieties for example is the philodendron prince of orange.

Send away for the catalog or search online for one of the lily specialists and “blow yourself away.” Remember, lily bulbs are perishable; don’t put them away in the kitchen pantry and say “I will plant them next week.” If you can’t plant them today put them in damp peat moss in the refrigerator, and plant them just as soon as you possibly can.

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Which comes first – the vine, or the support it grows on? Sometimes one, sometimes the other; but ideally, both together. Whether it’s an expensive pergola or a simple wire netting, no support should be either so elaborate or so out of proportion that it is in discord with the rest of the garden and the architecture. And unless the vine is in tune with all three, it does more aesthetic harm than good. A vine is only as effective as it is suited to its supporting structure, and the reverse.

Design-wise, supports and structures of all kinds should be kept on the simple side, conforming – not competing – with the architecture of the house or other buildings. Painting the supports the same color as the house helps tie the two together, with the vine to create the contrasting color and pattern. The best supports neither compete with their vines for attention nor outshine them.

Good construction is also important. A support should be strong enough from the start to bear the weight of the vine when it is fully mature – and even when it is whipped by strong wind. The bases of the support should be sunk below the frost line; and all wood, even durable cypress or redwood, should be treated with a rot-preventive. (Don’t use creosote or anything else that is poisonous to plants.) Copper nails and galvanized iron bolts also help make sure the whole thing won’t collapse when the vine has grown lush and heavy.

Most supports need periodic painting or refinishing. Plan ahead for this just like planning for the stages of tissue culture. Make the structure accessible; and train and prune the vine to keep it under control, so the stems can be removed and laid down without the job of unraveling a hopeless tangle, or even cutting the plant back to the soil.

For the sake of unity and balance in garden design, structures and supports need a reason for their appearance – to connect one building, area, or level with another; display a specimen or accent vine; keep the vine shapely and upright against a wall; lead the eye to an object of interest, like a fountain; integrate a restful bench or an outdoor living area with its surroundings.

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