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The Many Problems Of A Gardener

September 7th, 2009 No comments

Dog days are here the days when the heat closes in, when dogs and gardeners are supposed to be especially likely to go mad.

And reasons aplenty! Conditions are as near perfect as at any time during the year for the spreading of fungus diseases. Black spot, mildew, rust, brown patch, dollar spot and the various and sundry wilts all propagate and spread like a prairie fire unless the gardener is alert to their presence and acts quickly to combat them. Fortunately this danger period is relatively short. Many fungicides are readily available, easy and economical to use, Captan is favored by many gardeners Certain sucking insects, prey on shrubs at this time, namely spider mites (red spiders) and lace wing bugs. Both of these can be controlled by spraying with malathion.

Annuals and Perennials

Every gardener knows that keeping old faded blooms removed will stimulate more bloom. With petunias, alyssum, verbenas and snapdragons a severe pinching back will result in a very rewarding, new crop of flowers for the late garden. Short day annuals like zinnias, tithonias and marigolds can be planted from seed now to give satisfactory returns as late summer flowers.

Start seeds of pansy and English daisy in protected areas now for transplanting later. Lemon yellow and orange calendulas are also both good in most parts of the South, especially if given a little winter protection. Have you ever tried beds of pansies in solid colors? For a new thrill with pansies try all white, yellow or blue in double rows as borders in large pansy beds. The massed effect is very stimulating. Try to get pansies planted in permanent locations by October, They can be depended on for much winter color,

Start seeds now of biennials and perennials for next years crop. Protect them from hot dry winds and direct sunshine. Delphinium seeds germinate better at about 60 degrees.

Three old dependable perennials, iris, daylily and peony, need attention now. Do not be over-anxious to divide mature clumps unless there is a definite slow down in quantity and quality of blooming like the night blooming cereus. August is the accepted time for blooming cereus and dividing mature clumps. In dividing, remove all old foliage that will wither away, and plant only the healthiest divisions. Irises should be planted with so little soil over them that when the soil settles the rhizomes will he slightly exposed. Be on the alert for evidence of rot.

Daylily tubers should be well set with the growing point covered. With peonies the growing points should be covered with about an inch of soil. One teacup of Superphosphate dug around each mature clump of peonies will stimulate bud formation for another year. This month give the chrysanthemums the final pinch if they are being grown for pompons, but continue pinching if they are standards. Allow buds to set by early September and feeding with liquid fertilizer until color shows in the bud.

For your information there is much more on the topic of night blooming cereus. Drop by today at http://www.plant-care.com/night-blooming-cereus-perfect-low-humidity-little-space-houseplant.html.

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The Worth Of Carnations In The Home Garden

August 24th, 2009 No comments

Planting Process

In preparing the soil for the flats to grow carnations, use two parts fresh garden soil to each one part of coarse sand and one part humus or compost. Carnations are one of the few plants which should not be potted firmly. The soil should be shaken down, but not pressed. A good method of scattering the small seeds is to use a salt shaker; then after the seeds are in place, a kitchen sifter may be used to shake just enough soil to hide the seeds. This soil should be pressed lightly. Then the pots or flats may be placed in a container of warm water for several minutes, just enough to soak the soil well, but not to run over the edge of the flat.

Plastic bags make good coverings for the flats. This provides warmth as well as proper humidity for the seedlings. If the bags do not contain holes for ventilation, punch several openings before covering the flats.

Later watering may be done through a piece of burlap to prevent washing the tiny seedlings from the soil. Plants tray be thinned by using a pair of tweezers so that other plants will not be damaged when removing unwanted growths. The flats should be reversed every day to prevent the seedlings from leaning toward the light. When four or more leaves develop, transplant the seedlings two inches apart into larger flats or small pots.

Although carnation plants, especially the new improved strains, may be lifted in the fall, cut back, and potted up for indoor winter flowering, the small greenhouse gardener will find they are impractical for indoor cultivation. For the average gardener, outdoor planting is preferable.

Permanent planting for carnations should be about six inches apart with rows at least 12 inches apart. I also do this in caladium planting. I consider planting caladium as an easy but needs so much care and preparation. This is also like permanent planting for carnations, it should be done as early as spring weather permits. It is important that the plants not be set too deeply, or stem rot may result. Soil in which carnations are planted should be moderately rich and loose, perhaps two feet deep, giving the plants ample feeding room. A copious supply of well-rotted manure or other fertilizers should be worked into the soil before the transplanting is done. The soil should be moist at the time of transplanting, but not wet. The newly set plants should be kept uniformly moist, but never over-saturated.

Beginning about eight weeks after transplanting the small plants to their permanent location, monthly applications of a commercially prepared fertilizer should be used, preferably the type which is dissolved in water and poured around the base of the plant.

Soon after transplanting the carnations permanently, pinch the plants back to about three inches in height. This pinching will develop sturdy bush-like plants. Occasionally it becomes necessary to stake a plant to prevent its spreading flowers over the ground.

Bedding carnations will bloom from seeds in six to eight months. However, growers often prefer to treat them as perennials, expecting top flower development only from the two year old plants.

As may be expected, there are certain enemies to the cultivation of carnations. However, if the seedlings are carefully protected, the plants are sturdy enough to resist most plant problems.

Carnations deserve a chance to prove their worth in the home garden. The rewards are certainly worth the minimum of care and attention required. Although it might not be feasible to plan a do-it-yourself corsage for junior’s Big Moment, at least Mom can expect a plentiful supply of fragrant flowers for the house throughout the summer.

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