What do you do when a florist’s dozen arrive unexpectedly – try one of the following combinations: juniper with carnations; pieris (Pieris japonica) with roses; leucothoe or hybrid rhododendron with gladiolus. Any of these will look well with chrysanthemums. Since they are notable for their keeping qualities, it makes good sense to try them together, for such an arrangement should last several weeks. Not to be overlooked are ivy, pachysandra and large violet leaves. These all provide dark green color masses.

All of the hostas combine well with lilies. Perhaps this seems like too much stress on the addition of foliage, but it results in better contrast of color, texture and form. It can also be the starting point of a design pattern without which no arrangement will stand scrutiny, for the very word arrangement presupposes the word design.

There is little more to say about working with florists’ flowers that does not also pertain to garden flowers like the false aralia plant, especially with regard to arranging them. In both instances we deal with the same problems of suiting the arrangement to its surroundings, color wise and style wise. Scale and proportion of flowers to vase and the inter-relationship of flower sizes themselves must be carefully considered.

When we buy flowers we usually have a definite purpose in mind for them and select those which will complement a color scheme, provide exciting beauty or give the best effect for the least money. Six stems of chrysanthemums or four gladiolus stalks combined with foliage and presented dramatically will prove to be economical and pleasing to the eye. Three coral pink anthuriums, possibly in combination with a few ti leaves, will present an exotic appearance and keep longer than any other combination. For sheer beauty of form and color, lilies are my choice. Most of them are wonderfully fragrant and all have reasonably good keeping quality.

Roses, of course, are perennial favorites. A point to remember, however, is that they never do well in low containers since they prefer at least one-third of their stems in water. Usually, they arrive from the florist in a uniform stage of development. I sometimes keep half of them in a cool, dark place overnight, leaving the others under a light in a warmer spot. This coaxes some into opening and provides a variety of shapes for arranging.

Today’s carnations are grown in a great variety of color. They can hardly be called seasonal flowers for they are in the market at least 10 months of the year. Consequently, they remain in the medium price range, except for the red ones of Christmas. It is always with the greatest regret that I instinctively smell them and all too frequently find no scent!

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The more orderly method is to make a check list and to give our thought reality we shall consider the requirements of a family living in a development of identical houses in Central New Jersey. Their check list should be used as a guide in making your own.

Topography – Fairly level Exposure – South ( that is, front of house faces south) Location – Central New Jersey Design of garden – Informal Existing vegetation ( trees and shrubs ) – None Garage – Single, attached Soil – Sandy loam, well drained Neighboring properties – Houses on both sides Age of owners – early 30′s Family – Father, mother, and three young children Parents like to work in garden Parents also like to relax in and enjoy the garden, and plan to entertain extensively out-of-doors. Size of property-75 x 125 feet Budget – calls for an expenditure of $750 a year for 6 years.

Analyzing the List

It is obvious that since this family intends to spend a great deal of time relaxing and entertaining their friends out-of-doors they will need a larger than average private area. The rough sketch will include ovals on the basic plot plan the majority of space in the area behind the house is labeled private.

Since the majority of space is devoted to this area, it is obvious that the service area must necessarily be small, perhaps just large enough to provide a few fresh vegetables and flowers that do not require too much care. The completed plan of a garden should serve our hypothetical family well. It provides them with a vast outdoor living room that will be excellent for entertaining and just enough service area to provide tomatoes, string beans, radishes, and flowers.

Now let us consider a neighboring family in similar circumstances who do not plan extensive outdoor entertainment. In their case the service area could be greatly expanded at the expense of the private area.The service area may occupy better than half the space behind the house is sufficiently large to provide all sorts of fresh vegetables and cut and specimen flowers, while the private area, though small, remains large enough to meet the relaxation needs of the family.

Give a great deal of thought and attention to compiling your own check list. Never fail to consider your future as well as your present requirements; plan your garden in such a way that it will mature to fit all your needs with a, minimum expenditure of time, effort, and money. Just like caring for spider mites on plants.

Since our list has shown us how to determine the relative sizes of the public, private, and service areas, we are now ready to begin developing the individual areas. Your next step is to consider each particular area and proceed to mold it into actuality.

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There are a number of lovely types which reward those who care enough about orchids to study and meet their chief needs: light, water, nutrition, humidity and temperature. Here in the United States, most orchids are aliens in a strange and climatically hostile land, but they respond gratefully to efforts to make them feel at home.

Beyond question, orchids grow best in greenhouses. This fact has barred many people from enjoying this fascinating hobby, since they may have neither the means nor the space for a greenhouse. What can be done then? Some success can be had by placing orchid plants in sunny windows and staging them over trays of moist gravel. Though much success has been claimed for this method, I have found results over a period of two or three years most disappointing both in lack of blooms and in a gradual deterioration of most plants. However, the majority of plants can be placed in sunny windows over gravel trays during their blooming period where they can be enjoyed by neighbors as well.

Without a doubt, greenhouse culture gives best results. Since few can have large greenhouses, the answer is to construct little greenhouses – or Wardian cases (forerunner to the modern terrarium) – which can be placed in suitable windows, facing preferably south or east. The plural is used advisedly because once bitten by the orchid bug, no one is ever satisfied with one Wardian case, provided more than one suitable window is available.

These cases are not expensive if they are homemade. They can be built as simply or as elaborately as individual taste dictates. I have six of different shapes and sizes, all built of windows purchased from a hardware store. The general idea is to make a rectangular box with a hinged door and a hinged top which help to regulate ventilation and humidity.

These can come is all sizes and shapes, but just considera wardian case being a big aquarium.

What orchids can the be raised to best advantage in Wardian cases? Here is where opinions differ. Everybody wants the big, showy, gorgeous cattleyas, the aristocrats of the orchid world. However, it is best to stop and think for a moment. Cattleyas are large plants that take up much of the limited space in a Wardian case. That is one difficulty. Furthermore they need more light for blooming than is available in the average home. Then again, for good blooming, they need lower night temperatures than prevail in the average home. If one must have cattleyas, start with very few and see how you fare. The species orchid, Cattleya mossiae, the Easter orchid, is a good one to try. It is forgiving, rewarding and has lovely blossoms. I have had success with the miniature Cattleya forbesi. It is modest in shape.

There are mature hybrids which respond to case culture, but they are expensive and should not be experimented with until this form of culture is mastered. For those who hope some day to construct greenhouses and want to begin building up a collection, cattleya seedlings, which can be purchased at modest prices from any orchid dealer, will grow well in Wardian cases.

One of the loveliest and easiest to raise in Wardian cases is the moth orchid, indoor orchid, or phalaenopsis. It is a superb bloomer if given moderate light, warmth, plenty of water and high humidity. The white ones are best as they produce often two if not three sets of blooms a year. The pinks are very beautiful, but are not so prolific.

Next to phalaenopsis, I recommend cypripediums, or lady slipper orchids, especially the warm growing ones which are readily recognized by their mottled leaves. At the head of the list I place my favorite, Cypripedium maudiae, for it generally blooms twice a year and makes itself readily at home in a Wardian case. It is somewhat expensive, but a healthy plant is worth it.

Another family of orchids which supplies some members responding to Wardian case culture is the oncidiums, or the dancing lady orchids. These are sprightly and fascinating spray orchids. Many types are too large and others put out spikes too long for case culture. However, the family is a large one and many types can be experimented with, producing fair results.

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Here is a list of advantages of hydroponic indoor gardening when compared to traditional soil based gardening:

1. After your initial start up costs, hydroponic gardening is around 20% cheaper to run and maintain.

2. You can plant more hydroponic plants in a smaller area. This is because the roots have no need to grow as large as they have a readier access to nutrients. This is despite the actual plants growing larger too!

3. Maintenance time is greatly reduced in hydroponic indoor gardening! Weeding doesn’t exist without soil and of course there is no need to water them! All you’ll ever need to do is pick them once they are ready!

4. The yield is year round and permanent as you have full control over growing conditions and you will have made them optimum for whatever you are growing. This is great for when it’s off season as you can sell them for higher prices.

5. You can grow your hydroponic indoor gardening plants anywhere; rooftop, window ledge, corridor, garage, bedroom, living room, cellar or attic.

6. Your hydroponic indoor gardening will result in a crop that is on average 40% larger. This is because you have created the ideal environment for them and they have constant access to nutrients.

7. As you will not be watering them, there is no danger of them being over or under watered. This is a common mistake with many novice gardeners.

8. For the reasons listed above, your plants will grow up to 50% faster! This is ideal if you’re feeding a large family or are planning on making money out of it.

9. As you’re not using soil, you can take part in hydroponic indoor gardening in the desert or Antarctica! Or more realistically, if you don’t have a garden, if you live in a high rise building for example.

Hydroponic Indoor Gardening is a rewarding and exciting hobby which you can realistically make a lot of money from! If you’re interested then you should find out more about Hydroponic Indoor Gardening!

Now is the time to check out seed catalogs and online along with placing orders. Early in the month sow seeds of Clarkia, Godedia, Larkspur, Stocks and other annuals for Spring bloom in the greenhouse. Toward the end of January sow in the greenhouse Wax Begonias, Lobelias, Vinca roses, Delphiniums and Pansies for Summer bloom outdoors…

Remove pots of bulbs, such as Hyacinths, Daffodils and Tulips, that are to be forced for early bloom, a few at a time, from the cool basement or sand bed outdoors where they have been rooting, and bring them into the greenhouse or house. Shade them for the first few days and give them lots of water at all times. Keep them cool at first; increase the temperature gradually.

As soon as dormant potted Amaryllis bulbs show signs of life, remove a little of the old surface soil, replace with rich new soil, water thoroughly and place the pots in a warm, light location in the greenhouse or house. Pot new Amaryllis bulbs in well-drained pots of fertile sandy soil.

Disperse heavy accumulations of snow on evergreens by shaking the branches. Allow snow to remain on coldframes until it melts naturally. It provides good insulation. Branches of Christmas trees may be laid over evergreen perennials (such as Dianthus, Helianthemums and Candytuft) to give protection from sun and wind. Check tools and supplies now. Winter passes all too swiftly and with its end comes the immediate need for these. Make sure that the tools and implements you have are in good working condition. Buy whatever new ones you need. Also, make a list of the fertilizers, sprays and other supplies you will require and order them in.

In the South

Make sowings of annuals for early bloom either outdoors or in coldframes as soon as weather permits. In the lower South sow Carrots, Lettuce, Onions, Peas, Spinach and other hardy vegetable crops. Set out Cabbage plants and Onion sets. Plant Asparagus, Rhubarb and Horseradish. Proceed with preparing ground for later plantings. Almost all garden soils will benefit from having rotted manure, compost or other decayed organic matter incorporated into them.

Finish pruning Grapevines and complete the pruning of other fruits before new growth begins. Also, before new growth starts, apply dormant sprays to such fruit trees and ornamentals as need this treatment. Plant bulbs of Ranunculus, Tuberoses, Gerberas and Ismenes for Summer bloom. In the lower and middle South do not delay the planting of trees, shrubs, Gerberas, evergreens and Roses.

On the West Coast

Prune leaf-losing fruits and ornamentals that need this attention and complete this work before mid-February. Rose pruning should be done now in California. Attend to dormant spraying before new growth starts but not when night temperatures are likely to go below 35 degrees. In California gardens prepare plots for vegetables and make sowings of the hardiest kinds. Fertilize lawns and dig out patches of invading Bermuda Grass. Make early plantings of such bulbs and tubers as Begonias, Calla Lilies, Gladioli, Gloxinias and Tigridias. In southern California sow annuals, set out perennials and, following rains, plant trees and shrubs.

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A flowering shrub costs less than an evergreen, and in my opinion can achieve equally marvelous effects.

False Cost Estimates

Once you have studied the techniques of landscaping you will be able to guard against making false cost estimates. Here is a typical example of how many people go wrong: The novice would be “professional” home landscaper says to himself, “The distance across the front of my house is 40 feet – the ten plants to plant there cost me $75. Therefore, to go all around my property would cover 300 feet and this would cost approximately $550 plus dollars.” He shakes his head and resigns himself to a half-planted garden.

You will soon learn that such a method of estimating costs is inaccurate. In the first place you must try not to enclose the entire property; secondly, plants in the back yard will be given much more space in which to develop; finally, the plants in the back yard for the most part will be or should be deciduous.

Thus, a fine planting for your entire landscape even including a generous allotment of trees need not cost $550.

Installment Planting

If your budget cannot stand a large initial expense, there is no reason why you cannot spread costs over several years by installment planting, that is, setting only as many shrubs and plants as you can afford each year.

Because you will have made an overall plan, you need not worry that this gradual approach will result in a haphazard garden. As long as as you adhere to your sketches and plans you will eventually have a beautifully landscaped house and garden.

Be Original

Study of landscaping principles makes it easy to avoid imitation. You will arrive at your own firmly grounded convictions, and will be able to judge features common in your neighborhood on their merits, not on their popularity. Some you will like and incorporate into your garden. Others will seem pointless and you will ignore them without hesitation. You will, then, discover (a) that traditional methods are often obsolete, and (b) a different and less expensive garden will in the long run be better suited to your family’s needs.

Therefore, you should eliminate any ideas you have like planting croton red mammey and about how a garden should be designed. Then, as you go through the planning process, you will find that some of your ideas were good and should be included. Others will seem wrong; they will most often stem from what everybody else has in their garden like having croton red mammey. Forget these erroneous ideas; be original. Substitute new ideas you have gleaned from the reading, visiting other gardens – even public gardens and look at new commercial landscape projects. In a few years your house will be a stand-out in your neighborhood. In fact, you will soon realize, as I have many times seen, that your neighbors are beginning to copy you.

People do not copy failures, so you must be a success.

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The following are advantages of hydroponic indoor gardening:

1. You will not need to purchase any pesticides! The majority of garden pests thrive in the soil, as you won’t be using soil, there is nowhere for the pests to go!

2. After the initial set up costs, costs are around 20% lower with hydroponic indoor gardens!

3. You will be able to fit more plants in a smaller area. Even though your plants will grow larger in most cases, this is true because the roots don’t expand as much in hydroponic gardens. This is because they already have all the nutrients they need.

4. Maintenance time is greatly reduced in indoor hydroponic gardens! Weeding doesn’t exist and there is no need to water the plants. In fact all you really need to do is pick the fruit or vegetables when required.

5. The yield is year long and permanent. This is because you have manipulated the growing conditions to be optimum all the time. As soon as its off season, you can sell the produce for higher prices.

6. You can grow them anywhere; garden, greenhouse, rooftop, window ledge, bedroom, attic or cellar.

7. Hydroponic plants grow on average 40% larger. This is because you have full control over growing conditions and they have constant access to all the nutrients they need.

8. A big problem for many novice gardeners is over or under watering! This problem is taken away in indoor hydroponic gardens as you don’t need to water them. This can save you accidentally killing them.

9. For the reasons already listed above, hydroponic plants grow up to 50% faster than other methods of gardening! This has obvious advantages if you’re feeding a large family or are planning on making some money out of it!

As you can see there are lots of advantages and reasons to having a Hydroponic Indoor Garden! So if you’re interested you should find out more about making your own Hydroponic Indoor Garden, then you can just sit back and enjoy the fruits of your labor!

Without a source of reliable information at hand, the amateur gardener is likely to make serious and costly mistakes. Valuable trees, shrubs, evergreens, lawns and other landscape plantings may be damaged beyond repair as a result of errors of omission as well as commission. House plants, patio plants and greenhouse plants fail to prosper unless they receive care based on sound knowledge. Scientific and practical know-how are necessary to grow fine fruits, vegetables, herbs and flowers. The only successful gardeners are informed gardeners.

And upon what a wide range of subjects the modern gardener needs information! He (or she) must be familiar with the names (either common or scientific) of the plants in the garden as well as of at least some of those not at the moment there, but which tempt one in nurseries, garden centers and online catalogs.

Gardeners need to know the peculiarities, characteristics and cultural needs of their plants – trees, shrubs, evergreens, vines, ground covers, fruits, perennials, annuals, lawn grasses and others. They must understand soils and their management, the art of maintaining fertility and a desirable soil acidity and alkalinity. When to water and when not to water, and how to prepare soil mixes for plants that are to be grown indoors, also fall within the scope of knowledge needed by the gardener.

Raising plants from seeds, and all the many other ways of increasing them (such as cuttings, leaf cuttings, layering, air layering, grafting and budding) are fascinating procedures, but they are only successful when undertaken with reliable knowledge. These are basic skills that can be put to profitable use by all amateur gardeners.

Such arts as pruning, staking and tying, mulching, winter-protection, air layering and the management of greenhouses, hot beds and cold frames demand specialized knowledge. To plan and carry out successful warfare against those three chief enemies of the gardener – weeds, pests, and diseases – demands accurate knowledge and understanding.

That is where a good garden encyclopedia and reference website is an especially valuable work because it was written and edited by experts for amateurs. The horticulturists who produced it are thoroughly familiar with the problems and needs of beginner gardeners. In clear language they tell just what every home gardener needs to know in order to plan, develop and maintain a successful garden. An important feature of this encyclopedia is the large number of visuals of plants, gardens; landscape plans, pests and diseases and of how-to-do-it, step-by-step gardening procedures. These illustrations supplement and complement a very clear, easy-to-understand text.

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New evergreens that were planted this year will benefit from extra protection over the first winter. They are extremely sensitive to drying out. A burlap barrier or tent built on the windward side of the plants will reduce drying out from winter winds. Evergreens planted in open, exposed parts of the yard will especially benefit from such protection.

Fall Color

Many trees and shrubs will be clothed soon in a brilliant array of colors. There will be the deep yellows of birch, poplar, and aspen, and brilliant reds from various maples. Japanese barberry, Peking cotoneaster, and red osier dogwood will show striking color. Some shrubs and trees retain their natural green coloring until the end of the season, offering a striking contrast with the red, orange and yellow foliage. Other shrubs will bear colorful fruits.

Fall is clean-up time in the garden. Leaves should be raked up from the lawn. Allowed to gather on the lawn, they mat down during the winter and may smother some of the grass. Carry them off to the compost pile. Waste plant materials can also be removed from the garden to put on the compost. However, there are some advantages in leaving stalks and stems of plants in the garden over winter. They catch additional snow and give added protection to perennial flowering plants and sensation plant . Of course, if any of the plant tops are harboring disease, it is best to remove and burn them.

It may not be wise to mulch trees and shrubs. One of the greatest dangers of mulches around woody plants is that they often harbor mice. These in turn can be harmful to trees and shrubs by feeding on the bark and young stems and causing girdling of the plants. Be sure to spread around some poison bait, if mulches are used.

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Below is a list of why hydroponic strawberries beat traditional soil grown strawberries.

1. You don’t need a garden to grow hydroponic strawberries so anybody can do it! If you live in a crowded apartment block in the city centre you can grow them! If you live in the desert or Antarctica then its not a problem!

2. Because you’re not using soil, no soil borne diseases will be passed on to the plants! This solves a big problem for many gardeners.

3. You will have no need to purchase expensive pesticides to kill any soil loving pests. Your strawberries will remain organic as a result.

4. Once you are all up and running, your running costs will be around 20% lower than with traditional soil based gardening.

5. You can grow more hydroponic strawberries in a smaller area! This is due to the decreased size of the roots as they don’t have to spread out to find nutrients. So you will be able to grow more in your growing trays.

6. Maintenance is greatly reduced as soon as everything is set up. There is no need to water them as they already have all the nutrients they need and there is no weeding with hydroponics. In fact all you really need to do is pick them as and when you want them.

7. The strawberry yield will be year round. You control their environment and you will have everything set to their optimum growing conditions so they will continue to produce 365 days a year.

8. You can grow hydroponic strawberries anywhere; rooftop, window ledge, cellar, corridor, greenhouse, conservatory or living room.

9. Hydroponic strawberries grow on average 40% larger than their soil born brothers. This is because you have created their ideal growing environment and they have full access to all the nutrients they need. Money in the bank!

Hydroponic Strawberries are delicious and there is an opportunity to make some real money especially if you sell them off season for high prices. You should set up your own Hydroponic Strawberries system, sit back and enjoy the fruits of your labor.